City life.

A welcome back to Salta.

Salta City, Argentina

October 28th, 2024

Dear Reader,

We sat at café in front of our apartment building, at a table placed right on the sidewalk. It was late and we’d just gotten in from our long journey to Salta from the Calchaquí.

A man walked by pushing a bicycle with a strange contraption built onto it. On the back a crate filled with kindling had been attached. Every few steps he blew a whistle. The smell of smoke wafted our way.

“What’s he selling?”, we asked our waiter.

“Roasted peanuts.”, he said.

The peanut seller.

The road through the Cuesta del Obispo - the bishop’s pass - to Salta was covered in clouds. The mountains were green, and the air turned humid as we descended toward Salta. It was mostly overcast when we arrived in the early afternoon, and there was a chill to the air.

Overcast in Salta.

Driving along the Cuesta del Obispo.

Later, the super of our building walked by. He’s in his fifties, with a head full of salt and pepper hair, and a kindly smile.

“Hello! Welcome back!”, he called, waving.

“Thank you!”, we replied.

“Que disfruten la noche.”. Enjoy your evening.

After dinner we took our dog for a walk in the square. It was past 10pm but the plaza was alive with people. This was the hour of the paseo – the evening outing.

Folks of all ages sat on benches or strolled along. They talked, shared maté, ate an ice cream or a pancho – a hot dog – or just sat watching the world go by.

We walked back to our flat. A man stood on the corner in front of the restaurant next door. He wore a salteño hat and poncho, and held a menu in his hand.

“Ah, here they are!”, he bellowed. “Tanto tiempo.” Such a long time.

This was Gabriel. His job is to entice customers to the restaurant for empanadas and folklore music. We shook hands.

“Fueron a pasear?”, he asked. You went for an outing?

“Si.”

“Ah, que lindo verlos de nuevo. Bienvenidos!”. How nice to see you again. Welcome back.

Today we return to Valley life, but only for a few days; I’ve got a show in the city this weekend…

More to come.

Abrazos,

Mariah