San Martín, Calchaqui Valley, Argentina
May 14th, 2024
Dear Reader,
Being back in San Martín is like a balm after a long absence in the city. The noise of the cars and motorcycles, the passing of strangers in the street, the din of music from restaurants, and the general busyness being in a city brings - all these are far away from me now.
We left Salta yesterday morning. It was a grey day, rainy and cold. We passed through quaint Chicoana for a light lunch before wending our way around the Cuesta del Obispo - the Bishop’s pass. This is a shorter and more spectacular route than going through Cafayate, but windier and unpaved.
The clouds broke as we passed over the peak to the other side. We were in the sunny valley of the Calchaquí. It was cold but dry, and the sun shone brightly.
We drove on to La Arcadia and crossed the river, still high, but safe to drive through. The sun was beginning to set and the colours changed from blue to pink to gold.
Crossing the river.
Back at home, we made a fire in the living room, unpacked, and sat down to a dinner of soup, bread and cheese.
This morning I went walking. It felt so good to be in the fresh air again, with not a sound but the loros – parrots – crying, and at one point, the swoosh of the wings of an eagle.
Gone are the summer days of whirring tractors very early in the morning, and the mooing of the cows in the pasture.
Inés lit the little pile of twigs and papers Adrien had set for me before he left for the other banda in the fireplace in the office.
My fire.
I’ll be here till Thursday when I have to go back to the city to attend to some business. Then I’ll meet Adrien at Gualfín on Saturday. It’s been a long time since I’ve been there.
Next week is the lead up to the fiesta patronal at La Arcadia – the feast of the patron saint of our farm, Saint Rita of Casia, to whom the chapel is dedicated. Inés would like to leave at 4pm each day so she can undertake the yearly tradition of thoroughly cleaning her house before the feast day.
“Everyone in the village does it. It’s our custom”, she said gaily.
The novenas will begin this Thursday, and the following week mass will be said for three consecutive days leading up to the big day – Saturday, May 25th. This year will commemorate the 26th year since the building of the chapel.
For a little background, Saint Rita was an Augustinian nun who lived in Casia, Italy during the 14th century. She is recognized as the patroness of impossible causes and seemingly hopeless situations. My research also led me to discover that Saint Rita is the unofficial patroness of baseball!
Saint Rita of Casia.
More to come.
Abrazos,
Mariah
P.S. Dear Saint Rita, please help my home team, the Orioles, in their game against the Blue Jays this afternoon. Goooo get ‘em!
Whenever you have a moment, try your hand at creating a map. I'm enthralled with the various farm sites and cities you visit but, lacking regional awareness, I have no idea where they are in relation to each other. I just know they are somewhere northwest of Buenos Aires which, for me, is far off the beaten path and therefore exotic, even a tad mysterious
Gualfin doesn’t appear on google maps, are you closer to Cachi, Molinos or Seclantas?
Love following your blog, Eric